Bibliographical reference: Goodenough,K., Pickett, E., Krabbendam, M. and Bradwell. 2004, 2017 reprint. Exploring the landscape of Assynt. A walkers' guide and map showing the rocks and landscape of Assynt and Inverpolly. Edinburgh : British Geological Survey.
The guide is available to purchase from the British Geological Survey https://shop.bgs.ac.uk/Shop/Product/BSP_SMASSYNT
Written by Kathryn Goodenough, Elizabeth Pickett, Maarten Krabbendam and Tom Bradwell
Illustrated by Elizabeth Pickett Designed by Joyce Bain
Published by the British Geological Survey© NERC copyright 2004
First published 2004. Reprinted 2007. Reprinted 2017. ISBN 978-085272471-2
Bibliographic reference: British Geological Survey. 2004. Exploring the landscape of Assynt. A walkers’ guide and map showing the rocks and landscape of Assynt and Inverpolly. Map at 1: 50 000 scale. (Keyworth, Nottingham: British Geological Survey.)
Address of authors, designers and cartographers
British Geological Survey The Lyell Centre Research Avenue South Edinburgh EH14 4AP. 0131 667 1000.
Welcome to BGS - British Geological Survey
Book and map cover main photograph View east up the River Traligill to Conival
Inset cover photographs: Left Suilven from the west: Torridon sandstone above Lewisian Gneiss Middle Winter in Assynt: Conival Right Clear waters in the Port Alltan na Bradhan, north west of Achmelvich
Title page View of Quinag from Glencoul
Printed in the UK for the British Geological Survey by B&B Press, Rotherham.
Introduction
Plate tectonics
How rocks form
The rocks of Assynt
The Ice Age
Assynt through time
Knockan Crag
The Bone Caves
The Traligill Caves
Achmelvich
Clachtoll
Mac Pollaidh
Suilven
Quinag
Conival and Ben More Assynt
Boat trip on Loch Glencoul
Geological glossary
Useful information
Further reading
Glossary of Gaelic words
Acknowledgements
The Assynt and Inverpolly areas are in the Northwest Highlands of Scotland, north of Ullapool. The main towns in the region are the ports of Ullapool and Lochinver. By road, the area is approximately 2 hours’ drive from Inverness, following the A835 road through Ullapool to Ledmore Junction and then the A837 north-west to Lochinver. Scottish Citylink operates a bus service from Inverness to Ullapool, and Scotrail operates a train service from Inverness to Lairg. From either Lairg or Ullapool, it is possible to catch a local bus to Lochinver.
Most tourist services within Assynt are supplied by Tourist Information (01571 844330) at the Assynt Visitor Centre, Main Street, Lochinver IV27 4LX. The Highland Council Ranger Service (01571 844654) also operates from the Assynt Visitor Centre and maintains the information huts at Achmelvich and Clachtoll. It runs a full and varied programme of guided walks throughout the area. Further tourist information can be obtained from the Highlands of Scotland Tourist Board website at www.host.co.uk, from https://www.undiscoveredscotland.co.uk/ , or from the Assynt website at https://www.discoverassynt.co.uk/.
Lochinver and Ullapool have a variety of hotel, Bed and Breakfast (B & B), hostel and self-catering accommodation. Hotels can also be found in Kylesku, Drumbeg, Achiltibuie and Inchnadamph; there is a good independent hostel at Inchnadamph and a youth hostel at Achiltibuie. Some of the other villages in the area, including Achmelvich, Clachtoll, Culkein, Elphin and Ledmore, have some B & B or self-catering accommodation. Campsites can be found at Achnahaird, Achmelvich, Clachtoll and Ullapool.
Exploring the far North West of Scotland by Richard Gilbert (2000). ISBN 1-871890-27-6. Descriptions of many of the best walks in the north-west of Scotland, accompanied by spectacular photographs. Available in local bookshops.
A Hillwalker’s Guide to Sutherland by Tom Strang (1993). ISBN 0-9522654-0-0. Just about the most comprehensive guide to walking in Assynt and Inverpolly. Available in local bookshops.
Land of Rocks and Lochs: A Guide to Assynt and Lochinver by Nick Kerr (1993). ISBN 1-898151-00-8. A good source of information on the ancient and recent history, wildlife and birdlife of the area. Available in local bookshops.
Northwest Highlands: A Landscape Fashioned by Geology by John Mendum, Jon Merritt and Alan McKirdy (2001). ISBN 1-85397-139-1. A well-illustrated introduction to many geological features in the Northwest Highlands — the ideal companion to this book. Available in local bookshops.
Geological map of the Assynt district. British Geological Survey, 1: 63 360 Special Sheet. The classic 1923 geological map (reprinted 1969) is like a work of art and is still available in the BGS bookshop — www.geologyshop.com. A revised version of this map is in preparation by BGS.
The Highlands Controversy by David Oldroyd (1990). ISBN 0-226-62635-0. The story of how the geology of the Northern Highlands was mapped and debated during the 19th century. Available in major bookshops.
Classic Landforms of the Assynt and Coigach Area by Tim Lawson (2002). ISBN 1-84377-017-2. Part of a series on classic landforms of the British landscape, this book is a concise, well produced and informative guide. Available in major bookshops.
The Northern Highlands of Scotland (4th edition). British Geological Survey (1989). ISBN 0-11-884460-1. Technical overview of the geology of north-west Scotland. Available in the BGS bookshop — www.geologyshop.com.
Scotland: The Creation of its Natural Landscape by Alan McKirdy and Roger Crofts (1999). ISBN 1-85397-004-2. A well illustrated, easily readable introduction to the geology of Scotland. Available in major bookshops.
Geology and landscapes of Scotland by Con Gillen (2003). ISBN 1-903544-09-2. A thorough account of the geology of Scotland, with geological concepts explained for non-expert readers. Available in major bookshops.
The Geology of Scotland (4th edition) by Nigel Trewin (2002). ISBN 1-86239-126-2. A detailed account of the geology of Scotland, for those who already have some knowledge of geology. Available in academic bookshops.
Geological History of Britain and Ireland by Nigel Woodcock and Rob Strachan (2002). ISBN 0-632-03656-7. For those who have some knowledge of geology and who want to delve deeper into the geology of Britain, this is a very up-to-date book. Available in academic bookshops.
This book and map have been produced by the British Geological Survey (BGS) with generous co- funding from BP Exploration. The authors, designers and cartographers are based at the British Geological Survey, Edinburgh. The authors are geologists working as part of the Moine Thrust Project, which is conducting a new survey of the Moine Thrust Zone in the Northwest Highlands.
The authors thank Mike Browne, Rob Butler, Peter Craig, Ian Evans, John Gordon, Peter Harrison, Robin Noble, Colin MacFadyen, Murdo MacPherson, John Mendum, Stuart Munro, Michael Otter, David Stephenson, Andy Summers, the late Elspeth Reid, Chris Rix and Kitti van Ramshorst, who kindly read proofs of the book and provided extremely useful comments. Students from the Cramond Duke of Edinburgh’s Award Group tested some of the walks and provided constructive feedback. Patricia and Angus Macdonald provided the aerial photographs from which Elizabeth Pickett produced the paintings of the walks on pages 10, 14, 18, 22, 30, 34 and 42. The book was edited by Audrey Jackson of the British Geological Survey, Keyworth. Photographs were taken by Tom Bain, Tom Bradwell, Kathryn Goodenough, Maarten Krabbendam and Elizabeth Pickett and are all in the BGS collection. High quality prints can be obtained from BGS Photographic Services. BGS photographic materials are ©NERC.
The areas of Assynt and Inverpolly, in the Northwest Highlands of Scotland, are known for their dramatic and varied landscapes. The region stretches from an unspoilt coastline, with white sandy beaches and rocky cliffs, to a land of spectacular mountains and remote lochs. Assynt and Inverpolly have long been visited by geologists who come to study the rocks and structures that underlie this unique scenery. This guide and map describe a series of walking routes, varying from short trails and a boat trip to long days in the hills, which will help you to explore some of the geology of the area and to learn how the landscape has formed. There is something here for everyone, from the Sunday stroller to the keen walker, as well as both amateur and professional geologists. We hope you enjoy exploring the landscape of Assynt and Inverpolly.